Buying Guide

Masts

In the Europe class, sails are cut to fit the sailors weight and their corresponding mast bend. Heavier sailors use stiffer masts, whilst lighter and smaller sailors use softer masts, allowing everyone to compete in all wind conditions. In the Europe, there are both older aluminium masts, as well as newer carbon fibre masts.


Don't be put off by a boat that has an aluminium mast. Older boats may actually go quicker with a tin rig due to where the mast foot is positioned in the hull. The most common aluminium masts are Needlespar and Proctor masts.


Ceilidh are the only current mast supplier, although many older carbon-rigged boats will be equipped with Marstrom masts. Whilst Ceilidh use a more accurate kilogram system to communicate the bend of their masts (unique to the sailor's height / weight), Marstrom used a coloured band system as a rough guide to identifying the mast bend:



Both manufacturers keep records of serial numbers, so if you need to find out the bend of a carbon Europe mast, send an email to the manufacturer with the serial number of the mast and they should be able to tell you! In the UK, Rooster import Ceilidh Masts, and will be able to supply a competitive rig ideal fir your size and weight. 

Sails

Ask if the sails are specifically for the mast that comes with the boat... are they at least in the ball-park for the stiffness of this mast? Whilst for training this is no big issue, it will make a big difference in racing, as well as making the boat easier to handle as you move up the wind range.


Undoubtedly you will probably need a new sail or two in your time with the boat. The most popular sailmakers for new sails amongst the UK fleet are Sailtech (Spain), North Sails (UK), Pinnell & Bax (UK), Quantum Sails (UK), Green Sails (Denmark) and UK Sails (Denmark) which are imported by Rooster. Many older boats often come with used Green or Hyde sails, which were popular in the class in the late 1980s. 

Hulls

Over the years there have been many different boat manufactures. Winner and Finessa hulls are generally good, solid, strong boats, and are generally the most common. Lange, Lenham and Osis hulls also seem to do well, as do the boats built by Reg White in Brightlingsea, Essex. If it's your first boat and your just getting into the class it's not so critical but for a top-end racer. Older fibreglass boats are generally Rondar or Winner built, or there are wooden hulls from various builders. If you are looking for a new hull, Rooster import Winner hulls from Spain, with Synergy Marine having developed their own British designed and built Europe hulls.

 

When looking at a boat, check all fittings are study, ideally using a screwdriver to check that the screws on cleats, blocks and toe-straps all tighten.  Also check the wood under the deck that holds and supports the mast collar - this is one of the harder repairs to undertake if the wood has rotted! Check that mast step is solid in the hull too, again checking that the screws tighten. Some older Europes have been known to go soft in the decks where you sit - this is also fixable but will take either your own time (or somebody elses!) 

Foils

Over, if not all, used daggerboards and rudders will have small chips, particular around the trailing edge and the bottom of the board - it's definitely not  reason to discard a good boat.  You will need to check that the board does fit the boat if it's not been sailed recently. Unfortunately not all boards are created equal and some are thicker than others. Brand new rudders and daggerboards are available from Rooster and P&B in the UK, with N1, Milanes and E&V being the main current producers, but you can also make your own. There is a good set of diagrams for this in the class rules if that is the route you chose to go down.